Vata Management

I am now in full-time Vata management mode. The forecast in Boston for the next few days is "Vata" (English translation: cold, dry and windy). Combine the fast-paced, multi-tasking, constantly-texting society in which we live with a Vata-provoking weather front and you've got a recipe for imbalance. Whether or not you are a Vata-predominant individual like myself, now is the time to soothe and pamper yourself to prevent your doshas from going totally out of whack this winter. Vata is the instigator for many diseases and has this really annoying knack for aggravating Pitta and Kapha.

OK, maybe the situation is not as dire as I make it seem. But for me, I can't take the change of seasons and drastic drop in temperature lightly given my delicate constitution. So what is my strategy for staying balanced? I slow down and ground myself with several Ayurvedic tools and tactics.

Ayurveda views the microcosm (the human body) within the context of the macrocosm (the surrounding environment) and therefore makes accomodations for climate and season. While many of the treatments it employs may seem weird to the average Westerner (self-administered oil enema anyone?), Ayurveda is actually an allopathic system. Ayurveda definitely does not use pharmaceuticals and other strategies which work against the natural order like Western medicine does. The Merriam-Webster dictionary defines "allopathic" as "relating to or being a system of medicine that aims to combat disease by using remedies which produce effects that are different from or incompatible with those of the disease being treated."

The principle that forms the basis of most treatments in Ayurveda (there are a few exceptions which I can't discuss here), and makes them "allopathic" by definition, is the utilization of qualities that are opposite to those of the renegade dosha. Ayurveda is a holistic system which addresses "aggravated doshas" before and after they have spread and unfortunately manifested themselves in the form of diseases which have Western diagnoses. So even if a person waits until they have been diagnosed with a chronic condition which has been developing for years, the Ayurvedic practitioner will prescribe a protocol which targets the underlying doshic cause.

Since Vata, which is mostly governed by the air element, is cold, light, dry, rough and mobile, Vata-pacifying treatments rely on substances and actions with heavy, warm, smooth, stable and grounding qualities. For instance, suitable foods for Vata include root vegetables, fats & oils (especially sesame oil which is heating), dairy products, wheat and rice. In addition to heavy foods, bodies that are very "airy" can be brought back down to earth with meditative practices and routine. Sesame oil massage is also grounding and helps to counter excess dryness. Self-massage (abhyanga) with organic, unrefined sesame oil (yeah, it smells really yummy) is a great remedy for all sorts of Vata conditions (for more info, check out my tips for getting into the habit).

This past week, I made a kick-ass Vata-pacifying soup that was too good not to share!

Five Spice Japanese Sweet Potato Soup

2 - 3 tablespoons unrefined sesame oil (yes, you can use the same bottle for your abhyanga)

1 small onion, chopped

1" piece fresh gingerroot, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

2 pounds Japanese sweet potato*, peeled and cut into 1 1/2" pieces

1 teaspoon five spice powder

1 small can (about 5 oz.) coconut milk

2 1/2 - 3 cups filtered water

1/2 teaspoon sea salt, to taste

1/2 cup rice milk, as much as needed

1. Heat oil in a soup pot over medium heat and saute onion, gingerroot and garlic for about 5 minutes, until onion is soft and translucent.

2. Add sweet potato and five spice powder. Toss to coat potato with seasonings and cook 2 minutes. Then add coconut milk, water and salt. Bring to a boil then reduce heat and simmer, covered, for about 25 minutes until sweet potato is tender.

3. Puree soup with an immersion blender (or in a conventional blender) until silky smooth, adding enough rice milk to achieve desired consistency. Season, to taste, with salt.

*I used a purple-skinned "Japanese sweet potato" which was sweeter than candy! But you could probably substitute any kind of sweet potato such as "Garnet" or "Jewel yam."

Satisfaction vs. Stimulation

Have you ever read a book which resonated so much with your own opinions or view of the world that you wanted to email the author? I feel this way about David Kessler's new work, "The End of Overeating: Taking Control of the Insatiable American Appetite." The former FDA commissioner devotes over one hundred pages in his NY Times best seller to describing how the food industry has engineered popular snacks and quick-serve meals to be "hyperpalatable."

Kessler claims that "chronic exposure to highly palatable foods change our brains, conditioning us to seek continued stimulation." He has coined a term which encapsulates the resulting behavior: "conditioned hypereating." Americans no longer eat only when they are hungry and stop when they're full because food has been loaded with salt, sugar and fat. Processed foods are so jam-packed with caloric ingredients and artificial flavors that the food industry has essentially hijacked the brain's hardwiring. Food scientists and chefs have succeeded in making popular packaged products and menu items literally irresistible. Through interviews with dozens of industry experts and behavioral scientists, as well as conversations with consumers, Kessler describes how foods that offer a multisensory experience are the most craveable and likely to activate the reward center in the brain.

Chapter 18, titled "No Satisfaction," intrigued me the most because it reinforces the merits of Ayurvedic cooking. In the first seventeen chapters, Kessler describes some of the outrageous recipes and combinations of ingredients that give Americans a multisensory experience when dining out at places like Outback Steakhouse and Chili's. He notes the difference between the concoctions served in the United States versus traditional meals found in other countries. A food executive from Japan sums it up nicely: "The food I used to eat in Japan has complex flavors, and I can get satisfaction with less quantity."

It is no wonder that Americans crave enormous portions. The typical fare served at our favorite restaurant chains stimulates us to want more, more, more. European also criticize American "cuisine" for its lack of finesse. Just because a meal has bold seasoning doesn't mean it will satisfy.

Ayurvedic cooking is all about the art of balancing the six tastes (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, pungent and astringent) in a way which promotes equinimity on the gross and subtle levels. While a single dish, like kichari or dal, could contain as many as 10 different spices; the ingredients are blended in just the right proportions to please the palate without being overwhelming. Ayurvedic chefs also intentionally mix and mingle specific foods to maximize the healing properties of subtle energetic effects that the tongue can not even detect but linger in the body for hours after a meal has been consumed.

While Kessler condemns salt, sugar and fat across the board, Ayurveda recognizes both the beneficial and detrimental properties of these ingredients in the human diet. Due to its hydrophilous nature, too much salty taste causes water retention (which can lead to edema, characteristic of a Kapha imbalance). Excessive salt will also aggravate Pitta resulting in ulcers, skin eruptions and bleeding disorders. However, Vata-types can benefit from the laxative effect and electrolytes found in salty foods.

Eating too much sugar and sweet foods increases Kapha so contributes to weight gain, congestion, tumors, and diabetes (sound familiar?). But skinny and active people benefit from moderate amounts of natural sugars (found in both simple and complex carbohydrates) because the proper of use of the sweet taste promotes tissue growth and strength. There is no denying that lightly sweetened beverages help to quench the thirst and will cool down Pitta more effectively than plain water on a hot, summer day.

Fat lends an unctuousness to food and serves as a carrier of flavor making it an essential ingredient in Ayurvedic cuisine. Nevertheless, the quantity of fat used in a dish should be adjusted to meet the needs of the diner's predominant dosha and to compliment the qualities of other ingredients. (Quality of fat is also a factor, which I have discussed in prior posts).

Every edible substance in the world is a double-edged sword. When consumed with intelligent moderation and in a conscious manner, all foods are truly satisfying on all levels - physical, mental/emotional, energetic, and spiritual. However, abuse, misuse and mindlessness can ruin the nuturing potential inherent in the delicious resources provided by Mother Nature.

Does anyone cook anymore?

Inspired by the new film "Julie & Julia", Michael Pollan wrote a long essay for the NY Times magazine last Sunday in which he basically argues that despite the popularity of "cooking" shows (which includes both the traditional "how-to-cook" format introduced by Julia Child and reality TV programs featuring chefs competing at their craft in less than ideal circumstances), Americans are spending less time preparing food (just 27 minutes on average) than ever. What is even more distressing about the trend is what now qualifies as "cooking." The food marketing researcher who Pollan interviewed for the piece, Harry Balzer, explained that "people call things 'cooking' today that would roll their grandmother over in her grave - heating up a can of soup or microwaving a frozen pizza."

Americans rely so heavily on fast food and takeout meals (from restaurants and supermarkets) when dining at home that putting the slightest effort into feeding themselves and their families is a big deal. Simply tossing pre-washed chopped lettuce with salad dressing or making a ham & cheese sandwich qualifies as "cooking from scratch" for research purposes. The marketing research firms have to draw the line somewhere; so they might as well allow the companies that spend billions of dollars advertising "meal solutions" define what it means to put dinner on the table.

As long as there is some degree of "assembly of elements," consumers just have to follow the directions on the back of the package - ie. add milk and butter to a mac 'n cheese mix - and they've successfully made a meal "from scratch." It's no wonder that a good percentage of people in my cooking classes do not know how to read a recipe or properly measure ingredients (dry and wet measuring cups are designed differently for a reason). I don't mean to say that "real cooking" requires opening up a cookbook and following a recipe, but the basic knowledge of cooking is sorely lacking. The people I've met in the kitchen classroom corroborate Pollan's thesis that Americans watch cooking shows sheerly for entertainment sake. They love to talk about their most and least favorite Food Network celebrities, yet they're afraid to cut an onion.

I try my best to explain and demonstrate culinary techniques in class. However, if a person doesn't have the confidence to pick up a knife or turn on the oven; my efforts are for naught. He or she is unlikely to become a cook (I'm talking about a basic home cook, not a professional). Julia Child's quote from the episode when she drops the potato pancake all over the stove while trying to flip it in one piece has been repeated many times since the release of her biographical film: "When you flip anything, you just have to have the courage of your convictions." I couldn't agree with her more.

One of the things that I admired most about Julia Child - at least as she was portrayed by Meryl Streep in the movie since I never got the chance to meet her - was her determination to teach Americans how to cook. I feel a kinship to her because of my similar enjoyment for cooking and sharing my delight in the effort with others. Julia was motivated by her love of butter and all things French. My number one intention, on the other hand, is to reverse the deleterious trends in Americans' cooking & eating habits. I attempt to teach French culinary techniques, which I learned at the Culinary Institute of America, in a fun and "you can" way so that people will try them at home.

While some people sign up for cooking classes as a form of recreation - a fun evening out with friends or coworkers. And others who fancy themselves "foodies" rely on classes as an alternative to eating alone in a restaurant. I have to disagree with Harry Balzer, the food marketing researcher, who holds out little hope for the future of home cooking. He feels that Americans are too "cheap and lazy. And besides the skills are already lost. Who is going to teach the next generation to cook."

Thanks to the recession, more attendees of my classes are genuinely interested in applying what they learned and recreating my recipes in their own kitchens. It also seems like more young adults in their 20's are interested in cooking. There is definitely a segment of the up-and-coming foodie population (at least in the Boston area) who are experimenting with trendy exotic ingredients at home. They may be motivated by a desire to impress their friends, but they are cooking none the less. Even younger folks have become interested in "home economics." Vocational schools that teach cooking are having to turn high schoolers away while savvy entrepreneurs have created models to profit from the parents of kids who like to cook.

I believe that "The Julie/Julia Project" was the beginning of a whole new microtrend in the way young people look at the food they put in their mouths. I'm not sure how many people are cooking just because the subject matter affords them something interesting to blog about; but, if you do a search, you'll find thousands of amateur food and cooking blogs. Plus, think of all the people who don't cook (or at least, not that seriously) but are reading them. Thanks to Julie Powell and others, I do have faith that terms like bearnaise, chiffonade and deglacer will once again be spoken in kitchens across the United States.

Amaizing Eats

Fresh sweet corn is a delicious sign that summer has arrived in New England. I just enjoyed some of the first locally grown ears of the season - yum! The pleasure was a little late in coming since the weather has been unusually cold and wet this year. Now that the mercury has surpassed the 80 degree mark, it is finally time to break out my big 'ol soup pot and start the water boiling.

Time is of the essence when it comes to this particular crop. Thanks to a recessive gene which prevents the sugar from turning into starch while still in the field, sweet corn is good to eat off the cob as a vegetable rather than a grain. However, if you don't cook the corn within a day or two, the sugars will convert into complex carbohydrates which aren't so tasty.

I therefore suggest taking advantage of any opportunity to purchase corn at a farm stand or farmers market, where you'll be able to find ears that were picked the same day. If you don't plan to cook corn immediately, then refrigerate the ears (in their husks) and cancel any dinner reservations. Sinking your teeth into a cob of sweet, milky (the immature state at which sweet corn is picked is called the "milk stage") vegetable goodness is vastly more satisfying than overpaying for a mediocre meal out. To really reap the gustatory pleasures of summer, you'd be wise to plan meals and shopping trips around your local farmers market.

I felt a little frisky so decided to whip up a batch of Corn & Amaranth Polenta. Bon Appetit!

Corn & Amaranth Polenta

2 medium ears of corn

1 Tablespoon butter or ghee

1 cup milk

1 cup water

1/2 teaspoon sea salt, to taste

6 Tablespoons polenta (medium coarse ground yellow cornmeal)

2 Tablespoons amaranth grains

ground nutmeg, to taste

honey or maple syrup, to taste (optional)

1. Husk ears of corn and remove all silk. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Submerge corn in water and boil for 11-12 minutes (kernels should be a little al dente). When corn is cool enough to handle, cut kernels from the cob.

2. Heat butter or ghee with milk, water, and salt in a medium saucepan. When liquid begins to boil, whisk in polenta and amaranth. Turn heat down to medium-low and continue to cook, whisking, until mixture becomes very thick. This will take about 20 minutes (you can stop whisking now and then to rest your arm but don't get lazy).

3. Stir in corn kernels and season, to taste, with additional salt and nutmeg. If corn is not as sweet as you'd like, add a little honey or maple syrup.

I can finally chill out!

After months of gloom and rain, the sun is finally shining (for a day or more at a time) in Boston! There is enough heat now to crave cool, Pitta-pacifying foods like leafy green salads, cucumbers, coconut water, fruit and soup. Soup? Yup, refreshing, chilled soup.

I recently pulled out some oldie-but-goodie recipes of mine for soups that require no cooking. On a really hot day, who wants to turn on the stove? So rather than saute and simmer, I prefer to chop and blend ingredients.

The fundamental definition of the verb "cook" is 'to prepare food for eating.' While the term implies the use of heat, the application of fire (or gas or electricity) is not required in all instances. From an Ayurvedic and nutritional perspective, "cooking" is the predigestion of food. Breaking down edible substances with heat, acid or brute force before consumption makes the nutrients more accessible thus easier for the body to assimilate. A blender is all you need to "cook" my favorite summer soups.

Blueberry Bisque

10 oz. package frozen wild blueberries

1/2 cup sour cream (or plain yogurt)

1 Tablespooon fresh lime juice

1/2 teaspoon lime zest

1/4 cup apple juice, as needed

1/8 teaspoons ground cinnamon, to taste

2 - 3 Tablespoons honey, to taste

Combine blueberries, sour cream, lime juice and zest in a blender. Add enough apple juice to achieve a smooth texture with desired consistency. Add cinnamon and honey to taste. Chill for at least 30 minutes before serving. Makes 2 cups. I love to serve this with crunchy biscotti or vanilla wafers.

Cool Avocado Cucumber Soup

2 large ripe Haas avocadoes

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced (1 cup)

1/4 cup red onion, diced

juice of two limes

1 teaspoon lime zest

1/2 teaspoon salt, to taste

1/4 teaspoon cumin, to taste

1 cup water, as needed

Combine all ingredients in blender and process till smooth and creamy. Add additional water, if necessary, to achieve pourable consistency. Season with additional salt, to taste. Makes about 3 cups. May be consumed immediately or chilled for an hour or two.

Fat as Medicine

I recently completed an Ayurvedic seasonal cleanse. The beauty of the Ayurvedic approach to detox and rejuvenation lies in its simplicity (simple, yes; easy, not necessarily). The basic idea is that oleation (the Sanskrit term is snehana), of the body, both inside and out, loosens toxins (Ama) lodged in the tissues so they may be moved into the GI tract for removal. The unctuous quality of the applied fatty substances also help to nourish and pacify Vata dosha, which is disturbed in most people who live in our modern Vata-aggravating society. A purgative is taken on the last day to eliminate the accumulated Ama.

The 8 day cleanse protocol may not be entirely pleasant (especially the last day), but it is accessible to the average American as all of the fatty substances needed can be found in most grocery and drug stores (always look for the highest quality, hexane-free vegetable oils and organic dairy products). The catch is that it takes discipline to stick to a pure & fresh diet, perform a few unfamiliar hygiene practices, and get adequate rest.

The three key ingredients needed for cleansing are:

1. Ghee

Ghee, as I have described before, is clarified butter or the pure fat which remains when butter is cooked and strained to remove the milk solids and water. The first four days of the cleanse entail taking ghee first thing in the morning (on an empty stomach). No food should be taken for at least 1 hour or until one feels hungry. The amount of ghee administered is gradually increased each day and will vary from person to person.

Dr. John Douillard explains that ingesting ghee on an empty stomach causes the body to go into "fat metabolism mode." Fat burning encourages calmness (ie. the opposite of a stressed out state which leads to the production of cortisol and many health problems) and aids in the removal of negative emotions and fat-soluble toxins (aka. chemicals) that are stored in our fat cells. During these first four days, a light diet containing no oil should be observed.

2. Sesame Oil

Sesame oil is the oil of choice for external oleation. It is warming and heavy so reduces excess Vata without aggravating Kapha. Sesame oil is also fine for Pitta-dominant individuals who do not have an extreme doshic imbalance. Daily self-massage, abhyanga, with a liberal amount of oil is practiced on days 5, 6 and 7. In addition to the obvious effect - lubrication of the skin, sesame oil is believed to remove obstructions in the shrotas, or channels, allowing toxins to be transported from peripheral tissues into the GI tract. By pacifying vata, the practice of abhyanga also facilitates the proper movement of the dosha so Ama reaches the desired destination. [Note that physical activity should be kept to a minimum (gentle yoga is OK) to prevent the toxins that have been loosened from migrating to the wrong place.] During this phase of the cleanse, it is best to eat kitchari (mung dal and rice porridge) prepared with mild spices and some oil or ghee.

3. Castor Oil

Castor oil is an interesting substance. The oil derived from the castor bean (Ricinus communis), is clear and thick with a "mild" flavor. While parts of the plant are poisonous (harvesting of castor beans can cause permanent nerve damage) and castor oil has has several industrial uses (in soaps, lubricants, paints, etc), it actually is safe to ingest in reasonable quantities for medicinal purposes. It's mainly used internally as a laxative because it causes cramping in the small & large intestines thus encourages "emptying of the bowel". (In traditional folk medicine, the cramping response was also used to induce labor.) Since castor oil prevents the absorption of moisture in the intestinal tract, there is a risk of becoming dehydrated. So one should have plenty of fluids and electrolyte drinks at the ready.

I have not given precise quantities of ghee, sesame oil and castor oil that one should use nor have I elaborated on the recommended herbal supplements. Amounts will vary from individual to individual and those who are unfamiliar with Ayurvedic theory & sadhana (routine) should only perform a cleanse under the guidance of a knowledgeable Ayurvedic doctor or certified consultant.

Slow Down

I was inspired to resurrect my sourdough starter and bake a loaf of naturally fermented (without the use of commercial yeast) bread after attending the "The Future of Food: Transatlantic Perspectives" conference at Boston University. Scholars, activists, consumers and farmers came together to discuss the 'growing global food crisis.' Translation: if we continue to produce and distribute food in the current fashion, we will run out of safe & nourishing food to satisfy the basic needs of the world's population and we'll lose precious food traditions not to mention biodiversity (ie. heirloom varieties of fruits & vegetables). Popular buzz words like "agribusiness", "fair trade" and "carbon footprint" were thrown around by panelists from the United States and Europe.

The person who grabbed my attention the most was Satish Kumar, a sweet Indian man with a record of civil disobediance who is currently active in the green movement in Great Britain. During the last panel discussion, he reassured the audience: "If you want to live, bake bread!" Rather than allow yourself to be paralyzed by fear of cataclysmic climate change, irreversible pollution and economic insecurity; Kumar suggests that we permit love & the joy of cooking to prevail.

No one has to tell me to cook. I adore cooking as much as the Indian gentleman relishes rolling chapatis. If there were one thing I would openly admit to not whipping up often enough, it would be fermented bread - aerated by the CO2 from either naturally occuring or commercial yeast from a packet. I do make muffins & quick breads (using baking powder and baking soda) on a fairly regular basis and have already shared recipes for carrot ginger muffins and Passover-friendly banana quinoa muffins. It's not that I don't like working with dough. Quite the contrary, kneading dough is a lot of fun, helps relieve stress and is a great upper body workout.

Yeast-risen bread just requires rearranging one's schedule to accomodate the active & passive work as well as baking time necessary. Once the commitment is made, you are at the mercy of organisms (usually Saccharomyces in colusion with some strain of Lactobacillus) invisible to the naked eye but without which a chewy loaf of goodness would be impossible.

Since I am not an expert (this past batch of bread was the first one I have made which was 100% sourdough - no cultivated commercial yeast added), I will not be posting a recipe. Besides, it's easy enough to pick up a good book about breadmaking (I really like The Bread Baker's Apprentice ) or look up detailed instructions on the internet. But I do have a few tips to share:

1. Be prepared for a mess! Take off your rings and watch, roll up your sleeves and don't wear anything you'd mind getting flour or dough on. Dough is a pain in the butt to get off cloth and carpeting.

2. Read the recipe through a few times before starting. I like to write down a time line to figure out when I'll need to get started and be home to tend to my living, breathing doughy beast.

3. Find a few friends who are also interested in making sourdough bread. Every time you feed your starter, there will be a portion discarded. Instead of throwing it away, give it to another adventurous person.

4. Temper your expectations, delighting in whatever result you achieve. Homemade bread can not and should not be compared to the products pumped out by a well-established bakery. Many professional bakers have the advantage of working with a 100+ year old sourdough starter created in a particularly favorable environment.

5. Don't be afraid to experiment! You should follow the basics steps outlined in the recipe you have chosen but try varying the type of flour and flavorings to suit your taste. When it comes to sourdough, don't discount an old family recipe or wive's tale. What's the worst that could happen?

6. Use high quality flour, preferably organic, that is unbleached and unbromated.

7. Have fun!