Pass the Beans

Do you shy away from bean dishes because of the embarrassing side effects? There is no need to fear members of the Leguminosae family, who happen to be both agricultural and nutritional heroes. Legume plants have played an important role in farming for thousands of years due to their ability to replenish soil with nitrogen, reducing the need for added fertilizers. Alternately planting cereal grains and legumes, be it clover, peas or lentils, is a central practice in sustainable crop rotation. Ask your local farmer for details (if you live in the Northeast like I do, you may have to wait till the nearest farmer's market or farm stand opens in June).

Anyway, back to the issue of foremost concern to consumers: flatulence! Beans contain long sugar molecules called oligosaccharides (translation: "several unit sugars") which pose a challenge to the human digestive system. Since we don't make enzymes that can break oligosaccharides into simple sugars; the large molecules travel down into the colon where bacteria work on them and release various gases (like carbon dioxide and methane). However, you can reduce the amount of gas produced in this last stage of digestion thereby minimizing embarrassing trips to the bathroom or stinky public slip-ups.

The key to a gas-free bean burrito, soup or whatever your preference, is proper preparation. The three crucial steps in the process - soaking, cooking and seasoning - help to breakdown the complex carbohydrates in legumes and make the vitamins & minerals more bioavailable.

1. Soak : Soak beans in cold water 8 to 24 hours. Make sure to use plenty of water as the beans will expand and need to remain entirely submerged the whole time. Soak until beans are uniformly softened, which indicates that some of the indigesible sugars have leached out. Sprouting and soaking legumes activates enzymes capable of breaking down their complex carbohydrates and eliminates phytic acid (see my previous post about sesame seeds).

2. Cook : Discard soaking liquid, rinse beans and place them in a pot with enough fresh cold water to cover by two inches. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to a simmer and continue to cook uncovered until beans are tender (there should be little to no resistence when you squeeze one between your fingers). You can skim the foam off the surface of the water and stir occasionally to make sure all beans cook evenly. I like to throw a piece of kombu (seaweed) in the pot because it adds trace minerals and speeds up the cooking process.

3. Season : Add salt, herbs and spices to taste and continue to cook until flavors permeate beans. Epazote, an herb native to Central America, is traditionally used to flavor black beans because of its carminative (gas-reducing) quality. In India, asafoetida (see side bar) is commonly added to dal and kitchari to minimize the Vata-aggravating effect (ie. gaseousness) of mung beans and other legumes they contain. Ayurvedic cooks utilize cumin, coriander and fennel, among other spices, extensively because of their digestive properties. Cooking with herbs and spices also fills the kitchen with alluring aromas and creates layers of fantastic flavors which prime body, mind and soul for a great meal.

My Favorite Refried Beans

Serves 6 - 8

2 Tablespoons olive oil

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon freshly ground cumin seeds

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

pinch of asafoetida (optional)

pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)

3 cups properly cooked beans (I like pinto beans best)

1 cup vegetable broth or water, or more as needed

sea salt, to taste

ground black pepper, to taste

lime wedges

1. Heat olive oil in large saute pan over medium heat. Add garlic and spices. Cook two minutes, stirring, until mixture is fragrant.
2. Add beans with liquid of choice. Simmer until almost all liquid has evaporated and beans are extremely tender, scraping sides of pan periodically.
3. Season beans to taste with salt and pepper. Mash with a fork or potato masher, adding more liquid as needed, until desired texture is achieved. Serve with squirt of lime juice.