Thursday, December 17, 2009

Vata Management




I am now in full-time Vata management mode. The forecast in Boston for the next few days is "Vata" (English translation: cold, dry and windy). Combine the fast-paced, multi-tasking, constantly-texting society in which we live with a Vata-provoking weather front and you've got a recipe for imbalance. Whether or not you are a Vata-predominant individual like myself, now is the time to soothe and pamper yourself to prevent your doshas from going totally out of whack this winter. Vata is the instigator for many diseases and has this really annoying knack for aggravating Pitta and Kapha.



OK, maybe the situation is not as dire as I make it seem. But for me, I can't take the change of seasons and drastic drop in temperature lightly given my delicate constitution. So what is my strategy for staying balanced? I slow down and ground myself with several Ayurvedic tools and tactics.


Ayurveda views the microcosm (the human body) within the context of the macrocosm (the surrounding environment) and therefore makes accomodations for climate and season. While many of the treatments it employs may seem weird to the average Westerner (self-administered oil enema anyone?), Ayurveda is actually an allopathic system. Ayurveda definitely does not use pharmaceuticals and other strategies which work against the natural order like Western medicine does. The Merriam-Webster dictionary defines "allopathic" as "relating to or being a system of medicine that aims to combat disease by using remedies which produce effects that are different from or incompatible with those of the disease being treated."


The principle that forms the basis of most treatments in Ayurveda (there are a few exceptions which I can't discuss here), and makes them "allopathic" by definition, is the utilization of qualities that are opposite to those of the renegade dosha. Ayurveda is a holistic system which addresses "aggravated doshas" before and after they have spread and unfortunately manifested themselves in the form of diseases which have Western diagnoses. So even if a person waits until they have been diagnosed with a chronic condition which has been developing for years, the Ayurvedic practitioner will prescribe a protocol which targets the underlying doshic cause.


Since Vata, which is mostly governed by the air element, is cold, light, dry, rough and mobile, Vata-pacifying treatments rely on substances and actions with heavy, warm, smooth, stable and grounding qualities. For instance, suitable foods for Vata include root vegetables, fats & oils (especially sesame oil which is heating), dairy products, wheat and rice. In addition to heavy foods, bodies that are very "airy" can be brought back down to earth with meditative practices and routine. Sesame oil massage is also grounding and helps to counter excess dryness. Self-massage (abhyanga) with organic, unrefined sesame oil (yeah, it smells really yummy) is a great remedy for all sorts of Vata conditions (for more info, check out my tips for getting into the habit).


This past week, I made a kick-ass Vata-pacifying soup that was too good not to share!


Five Spice Japanese Sweet Potato Soup


2 - 3 tablespoons unrefined sesame oil (yes, you can use the same bottle for your abhyanga)

1 small onion, chopped

1" piece fresh gingerroot, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

2 pounds Japanese sweet potato*, peeled and cut into 1 1/2" pieces

1 teaspoon five spice powder

1 small can (about 5 oz.) coconut milk

2 1/2 - 3 cups filtered water

1/2 teaspoon sea salt, to taste

1/2 cup rice milk, as much as needed


1. Heat oil in a soup pot over medium heat and saute onion, gingerroot and garlic for about 5 minutes, until onion is soft and translucent.

2. Add sweet potato and five spice powder. Toss to coat potato with seasonings and cook 2 minutes. Then add coconut milk, water and salt. Bring to a boil then reduce heat and simmer, covered, for about 25 minutes until sweet potato is tender.


3. Puree soup with an immersion blender (or in a conventional blender) until silky smooth, adding enough rice milk to achieve desired consistency. Season, to taste, with salt.


*I used a purple-skinned "Japanese sweet potato" which was sweeter than candy! But you could probably substitute any kind of sweet potato such as "Garnet" or "Jewel yam."


Sunday, September 6, 2009

Satisfaction vs. Stimulation


Have you ever read a book which resonated so much with your own opinions or view of the world that you wanted to email the author? I feel this way about David Kessler's new work, "The End of Overeating: Taking Control of the Insatiable American Appetite." The former FDA commissioner devotes over one hundred pages in his NY Times best seller to describing how the food industry has engineered popular snacks and quick-serve meals to be "hyperpalatable."

Kessler claims that "chronic exposure to highly palatable foods change our brains, conditioning us to seek continued stimulation." He has coined a term which encapsulates the resulting behavior: "conditioned hypereating." Americans no longer eat only when they are hungry and stop when they're full because food has been loaded with salt, sugar and fat. Processed foods are so jam-packed with caloric ingredients and artificial flavors that the food industry has essentially hijacked the brain's hardwiring. Food scientists and chefs have succeeded in making popular packaged products and menu items literally irresistible. Through interviews with dozens of industry experts and behavioral scientists, as well as conversations with consumers, Kessler describes how foods that offer a multisensory experience are the most craveable and likely to activate the reward center in the brain.

Chapter 18, titled "No Satisfaction," intrigued me the most because it reinforces the merits of Ayurvedic cooking. In the first seventeen chapters, Kessler describes some of the outrageous recipes and combinations of ingredients that give Americans a multisensory experience when dining out at places like Outback Steakhouse and Chili's. He notes the difference between the concoctions served in the United States versus traditional meals found in other countries. A food executive from Japan sums it up nicely: "The food I used to eat in Japan has complex flavors, and I can get satisfaction with less quantity."

It is no wonder that Americans crave enormous portions. The typical fare served at our favorite restaurant chains stimulates us to want more, more, more. European also criticize American "cuisine" for its lack of finesse. Just because a meal has bold seasoning doesn't mean it will satisfy.

Ayurvedic cooking is all about the art of balancing the six tastes (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, pungent and astringent) in a way which promotes equinimity on the gross and subtle levels. While a single dish, like kichari or dal, could contain as many as 10 different spices; the ingredients are blended in just the right proportions to please the palate without being overwhelming. Ayurvedic chefs also intentionally mix and mingle specific foods to maximize the healing properties of subtle energetic effects that the tongue can not even detect but linger in the body for hours after a meal has been consumed.

While Kessler condemns salt, sugar and fat across the board, Ayurveda recognizes both the beneficial and detrimental properties of these ingredients in the human diet. Due to its hydrophilous nature, too much salty taste causes water retention (which can lead to edema, characteristic of a Kapha imbalance). Excessive salt will also aggravate Pitta resulting in ulcers, skin eruptions and bleeding disorders. However, Vata-types can benefit from the laxative effect and electrolytes found in salty foods.

Eating too much sugar and sweet foods increases Kapha so contributes to weight gain, congestion, tumors, and diabetes (sound familiar?). But skinny and active people benefit from moderate amounts of natural sugars (found in both simple and complex carbohydrates) because the proper of use of the sweet taste promotes tissue growth and strength. There is no denying that lightly sweetened beverages help to quench the thirst and will cool down Pitta more effectively than plain water on a hot, summer day.

Fat lends an unctuousness to food and serves as a carrier of flavor making it an essential ingredient in Ayurvedic cuisine. Nevertheless, the quantity of fat used in a dish should be adjusted to meet the needs of the diner's predominant dosha and to compliment the qualities of other ingredients. (Quality of fat is also a factor, which I have discussed in prior posts).

Every edible substance in the world is a double-edged sword. When consumed with intelligent moderation and in a conscious manner, all foods are truly satisfying on all levels - physical, mental/emotional, energetic, and spiritual. However, abuse, misuse and mindlessness can ruin the nuturing potential inherent in the delicious resources provided by Mother Nature.

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Does anyone cook anymore?

Inspired by the new film "Julie & Julia", Michael Pollan wrote a long essay for the NY Times magazine last Sunday in which he basically argues that despite the popularity of "cooking" shows (which includes both the traditional "how-to-cook" format introduced by Julia Child and reality TV programs featuring chefs competing at their craft in less than ideal circumstances), Americans are spending less time preparing food (just 27 minutes on average) than ever. What is even more distressing about the trend is what now qualifies as "cooking." The food marketing researcher who Pollan interviewed for the piece, Harry Balzer, explained that "people call things 'cooking' today that would roll their grandmother over in her grave - heating up a can of soup or microwaving a frozen pizza."

Americans rely so heavily on fast food and takeout meals (from restaurants and supermarkets) when dining at home that putting the slightest effort into feeding themselves and their families is a big deal. Simply tossing pre-washed chopped lettuce with salad dressing or making a ham & cheese sandwich qualifies as "cooking from scratch" for research purposes. The marketing research firms have to draw the line somewhere; so they might as well allow the companies that spend billions of dollars advertising "meal solutions" define what it means to put dinner on the table.

As long as there is some degree of "assembly of elements," consumers just have to follow the directions on the back of the package - ie. add milk and butter to a mac 'n cheese mix - and they've successfully made a meal "from scratch." It's no wonder that a good percentage of people in my cooking classes do not know how to read a recipe or properly measure ingredients (dry and wet measuring cups are designed differently for a reason). I don't mean to say that "real cooking" requires opening up a cookbook and following a recipe, but the basic knowledge of cooking is sorely lacking. The people I've met in the kitchen classroom corroborate Pollan's thesis that Americans watch cooking shows sheerly for entertainment sake. They love to talk about their most and least favorite Food Network celebrities, yet they're afraid to cut an onion.

I try my best to explain and demonstrate culinary techniques in class. However, if a person doesn't have the confidence to pick up a knife or turn on the oven; my efforts are for naught. He or she is unlikely to become a cook (I'm talking about a basic home cook, not a professional). Julia Child's quote from the episode when she drops the potato pancake all over the stove while trying to flip it in one piece has been repeated many times since the release of her biographical film: "When you flip anything, you just have to have the courage of your convictions." I couldn't agree with her more.

One of the things that I admired most about Julia Child - at least as she was portrayed by Meryl Streep in the movie since I never got the chance to meet her - was her determination to teach Americans how to cook. I feel a kinship to her because of my similar enjoyment for cooking and sharing my delight in the effort with others. Julia was motivated by her love of butter and all things French. My number one intention, on the other hand, is to reverse the deleterious trends in Americans' cooking & eating habits. I attempt to teach French culinary techniques, which I learned at the Culinary Institute of America, in a fun and "you can" way so that people will try them at home.

While some people sign up for cooking classes as a form of recreation - a fun evening out with friends or coworkers. And others who fancy themselves "foodies" rely on classes as an alternative to eating alone in a restaurant. I have to disagree with Harry Balzer, the food marketing researcher, who holds out little hope for the future of home cooking. He feels that Americans are too "cheap and lazy. And besides the skills are already lost. Who is going to teach the next generation to cook."

Thanks to the recession, more attendees of my classes are genuinely interested in applying what they learned and recreating my recipes in their own kitchens. It also seems like more young adults in their 20's are interested in cooking. There is definitely a segment of the up-and-coming foodie population (at least in the Boston area) who are experimenting with trendy exotic ingredients at home. They may be motivated by a desire to impress their friends, but they are cooking none the less. Even younger folks have become interested in "home economics." Vocational schools that teach cooking are having to turn high schoolers away while savvy entrepreneurs have created models to profit from the parents of kids who like to cook.

I believe that "The Julie/Julia Project" was the beginning of a whole new microtrend in the way young people look at the food they put in their mouths. I'm not sure how many people are cooking just because the subject matter affords them something interesting to blog about; but, if you do a search, you'll find thousands of amateur food and cooking blogs. Plus, think of all the people who don't cook (or at least, not that seriously) but are reading them. Thanks to Julie Powell and others, I do have faith that terms like bearnaise, chiffonade and deglacer will once again be spoken in kitchens across the United States.

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Amaizing Eats



Fresh sweet corn is a delicious sign that summer has arrived in New England. I just enjoyed some of the first locally grown ears of the season - yum! The pleasure was a little late in coming since the weather has been unusually cold and wet this year. Now that the mercury has surpassed the 80 degree mark, it is finally time to break out my big 'ol soup pot and start the water boiling.

Time is of the essence when it comes to this particular crop. Thanks to a recessive gene which prevents the sugar from turning into starch while still in the field, sweet corn is good to eat off the cob as a vegetable rather than a grain. However, if you don't cook the corn within a day or two, the sugars will convert into complex carbohydrates which aren't so tasty.

I therefore suggest taking advantage of any opportunity to purchase corn at a farm stand or farmers market, where you'll be able to find ears that were picked the same day. If you don't plan to cook corn immediately, then refrigerate the ears (in their husks) and cancel any dinner reservations. Sinking your teeth into a cob of sweet, milky (the immature state at which sweet corn is picked is called the "milk stage") vegetable goodness is vastly more satisfying than overpaying for a mediocre meal out. To really reap the gustatory pleasures of summer, you'd be wise to plan meals and shopping trips around your local farmers market.

I felt a little frisky so decided to whip up a batch of Corn & Amaranth Polenta. Bon Appetit!


Corn & Amaranth Polenta

2 medium ears of corn
1 Tablespoon butter or ghee
1 cup milk
1 cup water
1/2 teaspoon sea salt, to taste
6 Tablespoons polenta (medium coarse ground yellow cornmeal)
2 Tablespoons amaranth grains
ground nutmeg, to taste
honey or maple syrup, to taste (optional)

1. Husk ears of corn and remove all silk. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Submerge corn in water and boil for 11-12 minutes (kernels should be a little al dente). When corn is cool enough to handle, cut kernels from the cob.
2. Heat butter or ghee with milk, water, and salt in a medium saucepan. When liquid begins to boil, whisk in polenta and amaranth. Turn heat down to medium-low and continue to cook, whisking, until mixture becomes very thick. This will take about 20 minutes (you can stop whisking now and then to rest your arm but don't get lazy).
3. Stir in corn kernels and season, to taste, with additional salt and nutmeg. If corn is not as sweet as you'd like, add a little honey or maple syrup.


Sunday, July 5, 2009

I can finally chill out!



After months of gloom and rain, the sun is finally shining (for a day or more at a time) in Boston! There is enough heat now to crave cool, Pitta-pacifying foods like leafy green salads, cucumbers, coconut water, fruit and soup. Soup? Yup, refreshing, chilled soup.


I recently pulled out some oldie-but-goodie recipes of mine for soups that require no cooking. On a really hot day, who wants to turn on the stove? So rather than saute and simmer, I prefer to chop and blend ingredients.


The fundamental definition of the verb "cook" is 'to prepare food for eating.' While the term implies the use of heat, the application of fire (or gas or electricity) is not required in all instances. From an Ayurvedic and nutritional perspective, "cooking" is the predigestion of food. Breaking down edible substances with heat, acid or brute force before consumption makes the nutrients more accessible thus easier for the body to assimilate. A blender is all you need to "cook" my favorite summer soups.


Blueberry Bisque


10 oz. package frozen wild blueberries

1/2 cup sour cream (or plain yogurt)

1 Tablespooon fresh lime juice

1/2 teaspoon lime zest

1/4 cup apple juice, as needed

1/8 teaspoons ground cinnamon, to taste

2 - 3 Tablespoons honey, to taste


Combine blueberries, sour cream, lime juice and zest in a blender. Add enough apple juice to achieve a smooth texture with desired consistency. Add cinnamon and honey to taste. Chill for at least 30 minutes before serving. Makes 2 cups. I love to serve this with crunchy biscotti or vanilla wafers.


Cool Avocado Cucumber Soup


2 large ripe Haas avocadoes

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced (1 cup)

1/4 cup red onion, diced

juice of two limes

1 teaspoon lime zest

1/2 teaspoon salt, to taste

1/4 teaspoon cumin, to taste

1 cup water, as needed


Combine all ingredients in blender and process till smooth and creamy. Add additional water, if necessary, to achieve pourable consistency. Season with additional salt, to taste. Makes about 3 cups. May be consumed immediately or chilled for an hour or two.

Saturday, May 23, 2009

Fat as Medicine



I recently completed an Ayurvedic seasonal cleanse. The beauty of the Ayurvedic approach to detox and rejuvenation lies in its simplicity (simple, yes; easy, not necessarily). The basic idea is that oleation (the Sanskrit term is snehana), of the body, both inside and out, loosens toxins (Ama) lodged in the tissues so they may be moved into the GI tract for removal. The unctuous quality of the applied fatty substances also help to nourish and pacify Vata dosha, which is disturbed in most people who live in our modern Vata-aggravating society. A purgative is taken on the last day to eliminate the accumulated Ama.


The 8 day cleanse protocol may not be entirely pleasant (especially the last day), but it is accessible to the average American as all of the fatty substances needed can be found in most grocery and drug stores (always look for the highest quality, hexane-free vegetable oils and organic dairy products). The catch is that it takes discipline to stick to a pure & fresh diet, perform a few unfamiliar hygiene practices, and get adequate rest.

The three key ingredients needed for cleansing are:

1. Ghee


Ghee, as I have described before, is clarified butter or the pure fat which remains when butter is cooked and strained to remove the milk solids and water. The first four days of the cleanse entail taking ghee first thing in the morning (on an empty stomach). No food should be taken for at least 1 hour or until one feels hungry. The amount of ghee administered is gradually increased each day and will vary from person to person.

Dr. John Douillard explains that ingesting ghee on an empty stomach causes the body to go into "fat metabolism mode." Fat burning encourages calmness (ie. the opposite of a stressed out state which leads to the production of cortisol and many health problems) and aids in the removal of negative emotions and fat-soluble toxins (aka. chemicals) that are stored in our fat cells. During these first four days, a light diet containing no oil should be observed.

2. Sesame Oil

Sesame oil is the oil of choice for external oleation. It is warming and heavy so reduces excess Vata without aggravating Kapha. Sesame oil is also fine for Pitta-dominant individuals who do not have an extreme doshic imbalance. Daily self-massage, abhyanga, with a liberal amount of oil is practiced on days 5, 6 and 7. In addition to the obvious effect - lubrication of the skin, sesame oil is believed to remove obstructions in the shrotas, or channels, allowing toxins to be transported from peripheral tissues into the GI tract. By pacifying vata, the practice of abhyanga also facilitates the proper movement of the dosha so Ama reaches the desired destination. [Note that physical activity should be kept to a minimum (gentle yoga is OK) to prevent the toxins that have been loosened from migrating to the wrong place.] During this phase of the cleanse, it is best to eat kitchari (mung dal and rice porridge) prepared with mild spices and some oil or ghee.


3. Castor Oil

Castor oil is an interesting substance. The oil derived from the castor bean (Ricinus communis), is clear and thick with a "mild" flavor. While parts of the plant are poisonous (harvesting of castor beans can cause permanent nerve damage) and castor oil has has several industrial uses (in soaps, lubricants, paints, etc), it actually is safe to ingest in reasonable quantities for medicinal purposes. It's mainly used internally as a laxative because it causes cramping in the small & large intestines thus encourages "emptying of the bowel". (In traditional folk medicine, the cramping response was also used to induce labor.) Since castor oil prevents the absorption of moisture in the intestinal tract, there is a risk of becoming dehydrated. So one should have plenty of fluids and electrolyte drinks at the ready.

I have not given precise quantities of ghee, sesame oil and castor oil that one should use nor have I elaborated on the recommended herbal supplements. Amounts will vary from individual to individual and those who are unfamiliar with Ayurvedic theory & sadhana (routine) should only perform a cleanse under the guidance of a knowledgeable Ayurvedic doctor or certified consultant.

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Slow Down




I was inspired to resurrect my sourdough starter and bake a loaf of naturally fermented (without the use of commercial yeast) bread after attending the "The Future of Food: Transatlantic Perspectives" conference at Boston University. Scholars, activists, consumers and farmers came together to discuss the 'growing global food crisis.' Translation: if we continue to produce and distribute food in the current fashion, we will run out of safe & nourishing food to satisfy the basic needs of the world's population and we'll lose precious food traditions not to mention biodiversity (ie. heirloom varieties of fruits & vegetables). Popular buzz words like "agribusiness", "fair trade" and "carbon footprint" were thrown around by panelists from the United States and Europe.

The person who grabbed my attention the most was Satish Kumar, a sweet Indian man with a record of civil disobediance who is currently active in the green movement in Great Britain. During the last panel discussion, he reassured the audience: "If you want to live, bake bread!" Rather than allow yourself to be paralyzed by fear of cataclysmic climate change, irreversible pollution and economic insecurity; Kumar suggests that we permit love & the joy of cooking to prevail.

No one has to tell me to cook. I adore cooking as much as the Indian gentleman relishes rolling chapatis. If there were one thing I would openly admit to not whipping up often enough, it would be fermented bread - aerated by the CO2 from either naturally occuring or commercial yeast from a packet. I do make muffins & quick breads (using baking powder and baking soda) on a fairly regular basis and have already shared recipes for carrot ginger muffins and Passover-friendly banana quinoa muffins. It's not that I don't like working with dough. Quite the contrary, kneading dough is a lot of fun, helps relieve stress and is a great upper body workout.

Yeast-risen bread just requires rearranging one's schedule to accomodate the active & passive work as well as baking time necessary. Once the commitment is made, you are at the mercy of organisms (usually Saccharomyces in colusion with some strain of Lactobacillus) invisible to the naked eye but without which a chewy loaf of goodness would be impossible.

Since I am not an expert (this past batch of bread was the first one I have made which was 100% sourdough - no cultivated commercial yeast added), I will not be posting a recipe. Besides, it's easy enough to pick up a good book about breadmaking (I really like The Bread Baker's Apprentice ) or look up detailed instructions on the internet. But I do have a few tips to share:

1. Be prepared for a mess! Take off your rings and watch, roll up your sleeves and don't wear anything you'd mind getting flour or dough on. Dough is a pain in the butt to get off cloth and carpeting.

2. Read the recipe through a few times before starting. I like to write down a time line to figure out when I'll need to get started and be home to tend to my living, breathing doughy beast.

3. Find a few friends who are also interested in making sourdough bread. Every time you feed your starter, there will be a portion discarded. Instead of throwing it away, give it to another adventurous person.

4. Temper your expectations, delighting in whatever result you achieve. Homemade bread can not and should not be compared to the products pumped out by a well-established bakery. Many professional bakers have the advantage of working with a 100+ year old sourdough starter created in a particularly favorable environment.

5. Don't be afraid to experiment! You should follow the basics steps outlined in the recipe you have chosen but try varying the type of flour and flavorings to suit your taste. When it comes to sourdough, don't discount an old family recipe or wive's tale. What's the worst that could happen?

6. Use high quality flour, preferably organic, that is unbleached and unbromated.
7. Have fun!



Thursday, May 7, 2009

Golden Milk



On my way back from Kripalu last week, I stopped at Blue Hill Farm in Great Barrington to pick up some raw (aka. unpasteurized), 100% grass-fed milk. While I paid the farmer, Sean Stanton, $12 for a gallon of his milk and a dozen eggs, I walked away feeling as if I owed him so much more! When I called him up on his cell phone from the Kripalu parking lot, he agreed to meet me at the farm so he could show me the barn since I was a new customer. After admiring the friendly goats and checking out the milk storage area, Sean asked if I wanted to join him in checking if the calf had come yet. I said, "Sure!" We drove out to the field in the 'RTV' along a muddy path passing his flock of chickens along the way. And whaddaya know! Under a tree stood a mommy cow with her newborn. The baby hadn't started nursing yet but could easily stand on its own four legs. We watched as they walked out into the open grassland toward the other cows. Just like people, the animals all started walking toward mama cow to see the newborn. Several wore cowbells which chimed as they meandered over. There were black cows with a thick white "belts" around their mid-sections (Swiss Belted), reddish-brown animals (Guernsey), white ones with black spots (Normandy) and a few white cows with brown spots (Ayrshire). The experience was priceless.

Most American consumers don't stop short in the supermarket dairy aisle and wonder what breed of cattle gave up its milk for their benefit. And the sad thing is, they don't have to because most cows conventionally raised for their milk in the U.S. are Holsteins, a breed known for its high "production." There are some farms that promote the fact that they raise Jerseys (such as the yogurt maker Brown Cow) because the milk is higher in fat, calcium and certain vitamins like vitamin A. [The vitamin A content is higher in milk, regardless of breed, from cows that have been allowed to graze on grass (which is why it may have a golden hue).]

No matter the breed, unpasteurized milk is not only more nutritious (heat treatment destroys a wide spectrum of vitamins and minerals) but easier to digest because natural enzymes remain intact which aid in the digestion of fat and carbohydrates (such as lactose). The food safety police have very effectively scared the general public into thinking that drinking raw milk is like playing Russian roulette. That listeria, campylobacter or some other life-threatening pathogen could be present in that benign-looking bottle of milk and you just don't know which sip could be your last. In actuality, untreated milk contains beneficial bacteria that has the ability to retard the growth of bad bacteria. When unpasteurized milk does go sour (after about 5-7 days in the refrigerator), it becomes pleasantly acidic - in no way putrid like commercially produced milk - and can be used in cooking or baking. Finally, all the restrictions on raw milk sales and over-cautiousness are an insult to the farmers that raise cattle for their unprocessed milk. The blessed souls who do drink milk straight from their animal's udder put a lot of personal love and hard work into their farms. Besides, most states have very strict guidelines when it comes to the production and sale of unpasteurized milk (if they allow it at all) which prohibit filthy negligence.

According to Ayurveda, unpasteurized milk from grass-fed cows is sattvic and has many healing properties. Commercially produced milk which has been homogenized & pasteurized and even worse, probably came from cows fed grain and treated with genetically modified hormones and antibiotics, is tamasic and difficult to digest. It is recommended that milk be boiled before drinking (which will kill any dangerous bacteria that could possibly be present). Warming spices like nutmeg, ginger and cinnamon are commonly added to offset the liquid food's naturally cool & heavy qualities. Milk is wonderful for pacifying Vata dosha and strengthening the nervous system. A cup of warm milk with spices is a great antidote for insomnia. I'll drink to that!

Monday, April 20, 2009

Are You Nuts?!!!

I apologize for ranting so much about Salmonella and food recalls (foodborne illness is a sick interest of mine which has nothing to do with yoga or Ayurveda). So to make it up to loyal readers who have been patiently waiting for some Ayurvedic insights, I devote this entire post to discussing the place of nuts in an Ayurvedic diet.

Ancient physicians had a great respect for the concentration of nutrients lurking inside the shells of nuts and seeds. Nuts, nut milks and nut butters play an important role in rejuvenative diets for their fat, vitamins, trace minerals and medicinal properties. Some people believe that eating 10 almonds in the morning* provides all the nutrition the body needs for the entire day.

*Almond skins can irritate the lining of the gut, they should be soaked in lukewarm water overnight and peeled (after an overnight bath, the skins slip right off with ease).

In general, nuts are sweet, oily and heating (coconut being the one exception) so are best for pacifying Vata dosha. Being such a concentrated food, they are great for skinny Vata-types who need to gain weight; but should be consumed in moderation for those with delicate digestion. Individuals with a fiery Pitta constitution can enjoy coconuts (as well as coconut milk and coconut water) which are cooling and should avoid most other varieties. Peanuts (actually a legume) tax the liver and gallbladder so can be particularly problematic for Pitta. I give thanks to the wisdom of Ayurveda for sparing me from exposure to Salmonella in tainted nuts. Since peanuts promote gas in Vata more than true nuts, I swore them off this past winter (Vata season) before the Salmonella outbreak came to light.

For the same reason that nuts and seeds are good for Vata, they are not so good for Kapha. People who are predominantly Kapha in nature should abstain from eating nuts and seeds if they are battling weight issues or another doshic imbalance. There are a couple exceptions: walnuts and flaxseeds which are higher in omega-3 fatty acids that help boost metabolism and fight inflammation. Flaxseeds also help lubricate the intestines and stimulate elimination (when taken with plenty of water!) so can be quite helpful for both Vata and Kapha suffering from sluggish digestion. Kapha may also consume sunflower and pumpkin seeds in moderation which are a little lighter in quality and also good sources of fiber.

Sesame is the most potent of the seeds: they increase physical & mental strength and virility (yup, Yogi Bhajan claims that they increase secretions of the sex glands). Vata-types with brittle bones can benefit from the minerals (calcium, magnesium, zinc, etc) found in sesame seeds but need to use them with care. Overuse of sesame seeds can ruin the tone of the digestive tract (not to mention irritate the gut of someone with diverticulosis). They are easier to digest when roasted or blended with water into sesame butter or tahini. While sesame oil is tasty and makes a great massage oil, it lacks the fiber and nutrients present in the whole seeds. Try adding sesame seeds to rice or baked goods as in the cookie recipe below.

Tahini Cookies

1 cup rolled oats
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1/4 cup sea salt
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 cup tahini (preferably organic)
1/4 cup unrefined sesame oil (preferably organic)
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 tsp cornstarch or arrowroot
1/2 cup maple syrup
2 Tb sesame seeds, optional

1. Grind oats in a blender till coarsely ground. Do not wash out blender.
2. In a large mixing bowl, combine oats, flour, salt and baking powder.
3. Place tahini, oil, vanilla, starch and maple syrup in blend and process until smooth. Stir this wet mixture into dry ingredients.
4. Drop tablespoon of batter on greased cookie sheet. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, if desired. Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 10-12 minutes, until cookies are golden brown and puffed.

Makes about 2 dozen cookies.


Banana Flaxseed Bread

¼ cup flaxseeds
¾ cups filtered water
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup graham flour or wheat bran
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1/3 cup safflower oil
½ cup organic sucanat (or turbinado sugar)
1 cup mashed bananas (about 2 medium)

1. Preheat oven to 350º and oil a 5 x 9” loaf pan.
2. Combine flaxseeds and water in blender and process on high speed several minutes until slurry forms. Set aside.
3. In a mixing bowl, combine flours, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Whisk to aerate and combine well.
4. In a large mixing bowl, combine the oil and sucanat. Stir in mashed bananas. Add flaxseed slurry and mix well to combine. Add wet ingredients to dry ingredients and stir just until combined. Pour batter into prepared loaf pan and bake for 45-50 minutes or until knife inserted in center comes out clean. Cool bread in pan for 10 minutes then remove from pan & cool completely.

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Eat at your Own Risk




The CDC released a report indicating that the incidence of foodborne illness has not changed significantly over the past three years. The results of the study seem off-base given the recent Salmonella outbreak associated with tainted peanut products which has sickened nearly 700 people and killed 9. Many consumers may still be haunted by the illnesses derived from Mexican-grown jalapeno & serrano peppers (Florida tomato farmers sure are since it was their crop which was initially blamed) this past summer. And who can forget the outbreak of E.coli (caused by the potentially fatal O157:H7 serotype) from bagged fresh spinach in 2006.

Pistachio product recalls continue to trickle down in response to the current Salmonella threat traced back to Setton Pistachio of Terra Bella, Inc. While it seems as if we have nipped a full-blown outbreak in the bud (no illnesses have been definitively linked to pistachio consumption even though strains found at Setton Pistachio match some detected in samples from patients in the CDC database), the damage to the consumer psyche has been done. The word “Salmonella” has appeared on the front page of newspapers across the country, the FDA has instructed people not to eat pistachios without first checking with the manufacturer to ascertain that they are safe; and President Obama has announced the creation of a new “Food Safety Working Group.”

So what is a health-conscious person to do when “natural” and fundamentally wholesome foods are making people sick? I am sorry to say that buying organic is not the answer. Large-scale organic agricultural operations (who are generally motivated by corporate greed as much as their conventional counterparts) are susceptible to the same biological (birds dropping “salmonella bombs” on fields) and environmental (water contaminated by animal fecal matter) threats as conventional ones. And the USDA Organic stamp of approval does not guarantee ingredients immunity from mishandling on the farm, in a truck or at a manufacturing facility. The recall of thousands of organic snack foods (like Luna bars, Clif bars and Nature’s Path granola bars) made with peanuts from a certified organic processing plant owned by PCA (Peanut Corporation of America) that was closed in February for health & safety violations has shocked many consumers and left the Organic Trade Association with the difficult task of damage control.

Since corporations can not be depended on to voluntarily safeguard the food supply, someone needs to step up to the plate. In the case of almonds, which were responsible for Salmonella outbreaks in 2001 and 2004, the USDA mandated (effective September 1, 2007) the sterilization of raw nuts. California almond growers, whether they use conventional or organic practices, must subject their crop to either heat or fumigation with propylene oxide (a toxic chemical with a pretty bad track record for causing skin irritation, depressing immune function and irritating lung tissue). A small but vocal group of raw foodists and pure food activists have expressed their outrage that almonds labeled “raw” will no longer be truly raw and untreated. Sprouters now need to seek out "really raw" almonds imported from other countries where no such law exists because the mandatory processing kills the nut’s vitality.

Non-profit groups like the Cornucopia Institute, concerned with protecting the integrity of sustainable & organic agriculture and educating the public about ecological principles, also warn that the sterilization of the food supply could be more hazardous to human health. They insist that eliminating all bacteria on the surface of foods creates an environment conducive to the survival of even worse pathogens.

The more recent salmonella scares associated with peanuts and pistachios clearly demonstrate the deficiency of the USDA’s "Band-Aid" approach to food safety. Since in both scenarios, the nuts that ended up on store shelves were both infected after being roasting. The roasting process is considered the "kill" step which should have destroyed all potentially harmful bacteria. Thus, the indiscriminate sterilization of nuts is obviously not the answer.

Until food companies can be trusted to handle their ingredients responsibly and are willing to adopt transparent health & sanitation practices, the government is likely to advise consumers to treat nuts as if they were potentially hazardous. Food safety authorities have set a pretty strong precendent with raw chicken. What cook would dare undercook chicken? Will the CDC now launch a similar public health campaign surrounding nut products?

It is such a shame when perfectly healthy foods like fresh produce and nuts are the source of illness. Many people turn to nuts and seeds when they crave a nutritious and satisfying snack (due to their fat and fiber content). Now that it is so easy to find nuts and trail mix at convenience stores and in vending machines, you don't have to go out of your way to eat healthfully. Unfortunately, commercially packaged nuts - even those which have no added oil or sugar - are not as beneficial as one would hope. Because nuts contain enzyme inhibitors which make them hard to digest, they should be soaked overnight (see my previous post about sprouting). After soaking raw nuts or seeds, you can then dry them out in a warm oven (or dehydrator if you have one) to make them crispy again and kill any harmful bacteria which could possibly be present. The Aztec practice of soaking pepitas in salt water (before drying them in the sun) is probably even more effective at ridding the seeds of pathogens since bacteria can't survive in a high salt environment (they shrivel up and die).

Here is a simple recipe for soaked & dried pumpkin seeds, which can be adapted for other nuts and seeds, courtesy Sally Fallon from her book Nourishing Traditions.


Crispy Pepitas

4 cups raw, hulled pumpkin seeds
2 Tb sea salt
1 tsp cayenne pepper (optional)
filtered water

Dissolve salt in water and add pumpkin seeds and optional cayenne. Leave in a warm place for at least 7 hours or overnight. Drain in a colander and spread seeds out on a stainless steel baking pan. Place in a warm oven (no more than 150 degrees) for about 12 hours or overnight, turning occasionally, until thoroughly dry and crisp. Store in an airtight container.

Friday, April 10, 2009

Busy Cookin...

I spend a lot of time in the kitchen during Passover because I refuse to eat matzah at every meal. And to keep life interesting, I try a couple new recipes each year.

The last couple of posts have been focused on what I DON'T eat during Passover - bread, rice, legumes, corn, etc - so you are probably wondering what I DO eat. The simple answer is: lots of vegetables! I gravitate toward starchy root vegetables like potatoes and carrots to make up for the lack of grains in my diet. Last night I roasted Yukon Gold potatoes with cherry tomatoes, onions and mushrooms with a pinch of oregano. Yummy! My next project: homemade "Terra Chips" - thinly sliced beets and parsnips coated in olive oil and baked till crisp.

The one grain, actually a pseudo-grain, that I eat is quinoa. Quinoa is a member of different botanical family entirely - it's actually related to spinach. Quinoa was deemed Kosher for Passover several years ago by a rabbi in Israel because it is unrelated to any of the five forbidden grains (wheat, oats, barley, spelt and rye) which can be made into dough with leavening potential (aka. chometz). It is distinct enough from any of the other foods that fall into the category of kiniyot (foods that are close enough in culinary properties so easily substituted for the forbidden grains). And since quinoa primarily grows in the Andes mountains of South America away from other cereal grains, there is no possibility of comingling.

Just prior to the holiday, I had gotten into the habit of starting the day with a homemade muffin (gluten-free corn). So I decided to make some sort of Passover-style muffin. I bought some "Kosher for Passover" baking powder at the Kosher grocery store. How can such an overt leavening agent be "Kosher for Passover? Well, baking powder is basically a combination of an acid (sodium pyrophosphate) and an alkaline (sodium bicarbonate, which is baking soda) substance mixed with a small amount of starch (typically corn starch). When the powder is mixed with liquid, the acid and alkaline react to give off CO2, the gas that makes quick breads rise. For Passover, the corn starch is replaced with potato starch. While some folks would reject baking powder altogether during the holiday because it makes things rise, I prefer to take the product's label at face value. This year (every year, I make a determination of how strict I will observe the holiday) I have decided to use baking powder and baking soda in my holiday recipes. I'd rather prepare my own baked goods using healthy, natural ingredients than buy products from a Kosher for Passover bakery (which relies on GMO and/or hydrogenated cottonseed oil). I further rationalize my decision to use baking powder by defining "leavened" in a Biblical way - risen by fermentation (a natural, biological process). Baking powder did not exist in the time of Moses so the prohibition against its use is a modern rabbinical one. Very observant folks make desserts with beaten egg whites to give them a light, airy texture. This strategy is also technially a means of leavening - the addition of air to the batter using physical means. So rather than engaging elbow grease, I dabble in a little kitchen chemistry.

Passover Banana Quinoa Muffins
Makes 12 small muffins

1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup sugar
2 eggs (preferably organic, cage-free)
2 ripe bananas, mashed (about 1 1/2 cups)
1/2 cup plain yogurt
3/4 cups matzah cake meal
1/2 cup quinoa flakes
1/2 tsp cinnamon
pinch of salt
1/2 tsp baking soda

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and line muffin tin with paper liners.
Whisk together oil, sugar and eggs. Stir in mashed bananas and yogurt. In a separate bowl, combine matzah cake meal, quinoa flakes, cinnamon, salt and baking soda. Add dry to wet ingredients. Stir to combine and spoon batter into muffin cups. Bake for 22-24 minutes.
Allow muffins to cool before trying to remove from paper muffins cups (if you don't, they muffins will stick to the paper).

Note that this recipe calls for baking soda (an alkaline substnace) because I include yogurt which is acidic.


Cauliflower Kugel
Serves 6 - 8

1 medium head of cauliflower
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 spring onions, white parts sliced
2 eggs
1 tsp salt
1/4 tsp black pepper
2 Tb potato starch
4 Tb almond meal (finely ground almonds)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and oil a 9" square baking dish.
Cut cauliflower into florets and steam until fork tender. Drain.
While cauliflower is steaming, saute onions in olive oil.
In a food processor, puree 2/3 of the steamed cauliflower with sauteed onions, eggs, salt, pepper, potato starch and 2 Tablespoons of almond meal. Combine puree with reserved cauliflower florets. Transfer mixture to baking dish. Sprinkle with remaining almond meal and bake kugel for 50 minutes to an hour, till firm and golden brown on top.

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Cuisines Collide in a Casserole


Rice is a dietary staple all over the world. It is tasty, versatile, filling and relatively cheap. The last attribute could be its most attractive selling point right now as people who never had to worry about their household budgets struggle to pay all the bills. Complement any variety of rice with a well-stocked pantry and you’ve got a recipe for economical eating.

In my continued quest to clear out my pantry before Passover, I decided to make use of the bag of organic short grain brown rice I haven’t touched in a while. Hmm, what to do with it which would be worthy of publishing on the web? I refer to my well-worn copy of Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison (a veritable encyclopedia of vegetarian ingredients and recipes) for some inspriation. Opening up to the section “About Rice” in the Grains chapter, I found a recipe for Baked Spanish Rice. The recipe calls for Arborio rice, a stubby short-grained white rice which is great for making risotto due to its inherent starchiness. I could use a similar cooking technique with my short-grained brown rice because it is has a similar sticky quality.

I didn't want to simply follow the recipe (even though I actually had all 20 ingredients it called for) because that's no fun. And I couldn't copy it simply substituting brown rice because whole grains require more liquid to cook properly. But I was glad that Ms. Madison reminded me of the sun-dried tomatoes I had sitting on the door shelf of my fridge. A quick scan of the vegetable drawer revealed a piece of gingerroot on its last legs and some wilted basil - better use these things up before it was too late. So the idea to create an Spanish-Indian fusion rice casserole was born!

This particular fusing of cuisines using rice as the centerpiece is actually quite logical. Both cultures have layered rice casseroles in their traditional cooking repetoire. The Spaniards make paella infused with saffron, tomatoes and garlic, adding poultry, chorizo sausage and shellfish in stages as the dish cooks. Indians make a vegetarian meal out of rice layered with vegetables and flavored with sweet & spicy spices - usually including saffron like the Spaniards - and tangy yogurt. Both dishes can be cooked in the oven which ensures even cooking and decreases the chances of peaking (no peaking!!!).


East-West Rice Casserole
Serves 4

3 cups low-sodium vegetable broth
1 Tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
½ teaspoon turmeric
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
1 1/2 Tablespoons gingerroot, minced
1 - 2 cloves garlic, minced
5 sun-dried tomatoes (packed in oil), thinly sliced
1 cup short-grain brown rice**
1 teaspoon sea salt
3 Tablespoons basil, chopped (or use parsley instead)


1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and grease a 8 x 8 glass or ceramic baking dish. In a small saucepan, heat the vegetable broth.

2. In a medium-sized saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add onions and cook until soft and translucent, about 5-6 minutes. Add spices, gingerroot, garlic and sun-dried tomatoes. Cook 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Add rice to saucepan with onions & spices. Stir to coat rice with seasonings and cook 2 minutes. Add hot broth and salt to rice mixture and bring to a boil. Add basil and allow to boil for a minute, stirring.

4. Transfer rice to prepared baking dish, cover tightly with foil and place in preheated oven. Bake for 55 minutes. Remove baking dish from oven and allow to sit, covered, for 15 minutes. Fluff rice and serve.
**If you have weak digestive capacity (ie. are predominently Vata in constitution or have compromised agni, digestive fire), then soak the rice overnight. Drain rice before making recipe and use only 2 1/2 cups of broth.

Friday, March 20, 2009

Blueberry Couscous Cake

The two opened, half-eaten boxes of coucous in my cupboard reminded me of an interesting vegan dessert (or sweet snack) recipe I learned about back in college. "Couscous cake" isn't actually a cake. Rather, it is a molded block of couscous sweetened with fruit juice or sugar. If not prepared with oil to lubricate the semolina wheat granules and not properly fluffed, couscous naturally sticks together. I suspect that the person who invented the recipe turned a clumpy mishap into a healthy treat that is now embraced by vegetarians who shy away from conventional cakes made with eggs and dairy products.

The recipe that was handed down to me uses apple juice in place of water. The naturally occuring fructose in the juice along with some frozen blueberries serve as sweetening agents. When the cooked and flavored couscous (you can add cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla extract or lemon zest) is pressed into a mold and allowed to chill overnight, it emerges as a "cake" solid enough to be cut into individual slices.

I came across a delicious-sounding recipe on the internet for a "Coconut Vanilla Bean Couscous Cake" that uses coconut milk as the liquid. Since I didn't have a can of coconut milk on hand, I figured I'd make a lactovegetarian version using the organic, grass-fed, non-homogenized* milk in my fridge (since it is illegal for grocery stores in Massachusetts to sell raw milk, Sky Top Farms milk is the next best alternative available at the local Whole Foods Market). I also opted for honey instead of evaporated cane juice (aka. cane sugar) because it is a less refined product and thought its stickiness would help hold the cake together. Note that Ayurvedic authorities do not recommend heating honey. If you are concerned about the toxins that are supposedly formed when honey is heated then you can either substitue agave nectar or just be careful not to boil the honey in the milk as directed.

Blueberry Couscous Cake
Serves 4

1 1/4 cup milk (organic, grass-fed is preferred)

1/2 cup frozen blueberries (no need to thaw!)

3 Tb honey

1/8 tsp ground cinnamon, to taste

pinch of salt

1 cup couscous

Combine all ingredients except for couscous in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir in couscous, cover and remove from heat. Allow to sit for 10 minutes, covered. Transfer prepared couscous to a greased (I used olive oil) pie plate and pat down. Cool to room temperature then cover and refrigerate overnight. When ready to serve, cut into slices. Serve with whipped cream or Greek-style yogurt if desired.

*Homogenization is the process by which the fat globules in milk are broken down into smaller particles so they can remain suspended within the liquid portion of the milk instead of rising to the top. Consumption of homogenized milk has been associated with increased rates of heart disease and diabetes. Milk allergies have also been on the rise since the advent of commercial homogenization. Because homogenization increases the surface area on the fat globules and disrupts their natural membrane, more of the casein (milk protein) and whey are incorporated into the new one which is formed.

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Kitchen Sink Polenta


Now that Purim (just another holiday which gives Jews an excuse to eat, drink and be merry) has come and gone, I have set out on a personal culinary quest of ridding my pantry of all grains and legumes before the start of Passover. Last weekend, I cleaned out my refrigerator. I threw away several botched fermented vegetable experiments. Even though I knew I'd never eat the funky cabbage, moldy cukes or slimy beets, it was sad to see them go down the drain (they didn't smell so good either). I wiped down the shelves with biodegradable kitchen cleaner and shook all the dried bits of onion and garlic skins out of the veggie drawers. What a relief!

So now, I have to tackle the cupboard. I've got opened packages of brown rice, amaranth, lentils, rice noodles and more. What shall I do with all the random dribs and drabs of loose bulk grains left over from the cooking classes I've taught this past winter? Time to get creative - the thing I like best about being a chef.

I thought I'd begin my spring cleaning project by tackling the polenta:

***


Kitchen Sink Polenta


1 Tablespoon olive oil

1/4 cup minced onion

2 cups vegetable broth

1 cup water

1/4 teaspoon salt (the amount will depend on the type of broth you use)

1/2 cup polenta (aka. cornmeal grits)

1/4 cup amaranth

6 Kalamata olives, pitted and chopped

1/2 - 1 cup grated Havarti cheese (or whatever kind you have on hand)

3 Tablespoons chopped herbs (I used parsley and basil in this recipe)

salt & black pepper, to taste




1. Heat olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and saute until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes.

2. Add broth, water and salt and bring to a boil. Whisk in polenta and amaranth, stirring. Cook, stirring often, until mixture is quite thick - about 20 minutes.

3. Stir in olive, cheese and herbs. Cook another couple minutes and season with salt & pepper.








Saturday, March 7, 2009

Mind-Body Nutrition

Do you consider yourself a “healthy” eater but still feel like something is lacking in your diet? Perhaps you crave something sweet after eating an enormous vegetarian black bean burrito at the local Tex-Mex joint. Or you find yourself dozing off in the afternoon even though you opted for the veggie burger & steamed broccoli (instead of beef burger and fries) at lunch. Isn’t a vegetarian diet supposed to make you feel good? Aren’t we supposed to eat more fruits and vegetables?
Since entering the twenty-first century, a case can no longer be made for including French fries in one’s daily vegetable tally. However, the nutritional status of ketchup is still ambiguous in many people‘s minds. The bottle claims the condiment to be a good source of lycopene (a phytochemical shown to decrease the risk of certain cancers). If you were to slather a generous serving of the red stuff on your veggie burger, you’d meet 4% of the daily requirment for Vitamin C. Why shouldn’t that count? Assuming the trace amount of vitamins detectable in ketchup is significant, despite the high fructose corn syrup; then do you give yourself brownie points for eating a vegetable or a fruit (it tastes more like a fruit to me)?
Geez, what did people do before the invention of the mandatory Nutrition Facts label? They probably enjoyed their food a lot more and certainly didn’t suffer anxiety obsessing over healthy eating (not technically an eating disorder, the term given to the angst and extreme behavior evoked by trying to eat too healthfully - orthorexia, is currently being studied by clinicians and academics).
With so much evidence linking specific nutrients to the prevention of diseases like arthritis and diabetes, the delicate effects that food has on a person’s emotional and mental state is overlooked by researchers. Aside from the consequence that carbohydrates have on serotonin levels which in turn alters mood; mental well-being does not come up in discussions about eating to satisfy one’s nutritional needs. Sure, certain vitamins and fatty acids have been associated with decreased risk of developing mental disorders like Alzheimer’s disease. But the science is based on a strictly biomechanical understanding of the brain.
Ayurveda views the mind as a non-physical entity which is not confined to a single organ. In addition to determining a person‘s personality, the mind in a stream of consciousness that flows throughout the entire body and is altered by subtle qualities (so subtle that they can not be detected by conventional modern means) inherent in the Universe. These subtle qualities, or “essences”, also known as gunas, exist in all things including edible substances. There are three gunas: sattva, rajas and tamas. Sattva is the quality of purity, truth and light which promotes balance & spiritual development. Rajas is the quality of activity and movement so leads to desires, passion and outward action. Tamas is the quality of dullness, inertia and darkness that creates ignorance, lethargy or laziness.
While all three gunas are necessary to some degree, Ayurveda emphasizes the cultivation of sattva because it encourages a state of balance which ultimately facilitates healing. Yogis who aspire to higher levels of spiritual attainment also focus on a lifestyle and diet that is sattvic in nature. Sattvic foods, such as fresh fruits and vegetables, whole grains and high quality dairy products, are thought to have a rejuvenating effect on the body and calm the mind.
Typically, yogis eschew meat due to its mainly tamasic quality which saps the body of energy and suppresses agni leading to the build up of toxins (Ama). Rajasic foods like onions, tomatoes and vinegar are also avoided because they are believed to encourage egotistical behavior, anger and jealosy.
A nutrition theory that truly appreciates the intimate connection between mind and body should therefore consider the influence of the gunas. The gunas help to explain certain paradoxes that exist with conventional thinking. Examining the inherent energetic qualities of Nature’s bounty also allows for a more individualized approach to diet. For instance, mushrooms are actually tamasic, unlike most other vegetables which synthesize light and are therefore sattvic. While a mushroom burger may not have the same effect on the arteries as one made with beef, it will leave the consumer with a similar dull feeling due to tamas.
Let’s return to that black bean burrito. Why would a well-meaning omnivore leave the table desiring something sweet after polishing off a vegetarian menu item? Sure, black beans and most whole grains (we’ll assume that the restaurant offers whole wheat tortillas) are sattvic. The onions, peppers, garlic, sour cream, guacamole (it’s made with avocadoes) also stuffed inside the burrito are rajasic. The combination of all these ingredients could be over stimulating and cause the body to crave something which will calm the senses down. The perfect antidote would be some nice juicy sattvic fruit or a sweet lassi.
Alternatively, if the burrito joint is of the “cheap” persuasion - which relies on canned beans, poor quality or previously frozen vegetables, refined white flour products and microwave ovens - you may be suffering from a tamasic hangover. No matter how “healthy” the ingredient list, the poetic menu description is mere hyperbole and downright fraudulent if the food ultimately served is nuked, overcooked or leftover from the previous week. So the gunas are key!

Sattvic foods include well-prepared whole grains, legumes (except for peanuts), nuts, seeds, fresh & dried fruits, leafy vegetables, root vegetables, honey, fresh dairy products and ghee (see side bar for great source of top quality ghee).
Rajasic foods are onions, garlic, radishes, peanuts, eggs, caffeinated beverages, vinager and other fermented foods. In the short term, sugar is rajasic.
Tamasic foods include mushrooms, meat, fish and white flour. Sugar is tamasic in the long term. All deep-fried, microwaved, stale, leftover, frozen and overcooked food also take on a quality of tamas.

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Sprouting isn't just for Hippies


I've started sprouting and soaking a variety of grains and lentils over the past month. As if I don't already spend enough time in the kitchen, I decided to try some even more meticulous methods of food preparation after attending the Four Fold Healing Conference. Some of the information presented by Dr. Cowan with regard to diet conflicted with certain Ayurvedic principles I hold dear but most of his guidance reinforced my knowledge. Ayurvedic cooking techniques, as I have described in previous posts, are designed to "pre-digest" food and enhance agni (the digestive fire). Dr. Cowan and Sally Fallon advocate a diet that relies more heavily on animal products - high quality ones like raw milk & grass-fed beef; but they also emphasize the importance of properly preparing food to ease digestion and ensure assimilation of nutrients.

Whole, unrefined grains are praised by nutritionists for their relatively high vitamin and mineral content (compared to refined grains and white flour), but methods of preparation which maximize their health benefits are often ignored. Recipes designed to appeal to busy families offer shortcuts that undermine the natural goodness of key ingredients like brown rice and wheat berries. Whole grains need to be soaked to neutralize their phytic acid which binds with minerals like calcium, iron and zinc thereby inhibiting absorption of these nutrients. Adding something acidic (like lemon juice or vinegar) to the soaking liquid can help reduce the soaking time required. Using whey (the liquid that runs off in the production of cheese and which you can acquire by draining yogurt in cheesecloth overnight) to soak grains introduces lactobacilli which break down phytic acid even more effectively.
Commercially produced whole wheat bread and whole grain breakfast cereals may cause more harm than good (and may be a contributing factor in the prevalence of food allergies). Most convenience foods which proclaim to be "made with whole grains" contain more white flour, sugar and other additives than they do actual whole grains. And the processing of whole grains by major food manfacturers does not help the body to assimilate them. If anything, it makes them harder to digest and introduces toxins.
So the trick to including more whole grains and legumes in your diet with the most health benefits is to adopt habits that make them as convenient as processed foods. First, you'll need to stock your pantry with the right ingredients (in my book, grabbing something from the cupboard is certainly more convenient than stopping at Dunkin' Donuts for a bagel on the way to work).
Here are a few things that I have started to do:
1. Place a serving of rolled oats in a small saucepan with water and a little whey before I go to bed at night. In the morning, I just add some raisins & cinnamon, turn on the burner and I have a hot breakfast in about 5 - 7 minutes.
2. To sprout lentils, I soak them overnight then rinse them twice a day (once in the morning while cleaning up breakfast and right before bed, after putting my oats on the stove to soak) until they grow their little tails. (There are a ton of resources on the web which explain the how and why of sprouting.)
3. If I notice my fridge getting empty, I immediately begin soaking a cup of brown rice, barley or other grain that I think I'll want to eat for lunch (with veggies and sprouted lentil soup - recipe below).
4. For a quick snack, I grab a piece of Ezekial bread, made with 100% sprouted grains, and spread on some organic, grass-fed butter or ghee. Yum!
Sprouted Lentil Soup
Makes about 3 servings
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 ribs celery, finely chopped
1 carrot, peeled & finely chopped
1 sprig thyme or rosemary (optional, but delicious)
1/2 cup lentils sprouted to yield about 3 cups
4 cups broth (vegetable or homemade organic chicken broth)
salt & black pepper, to taste
1. Heat oil in medium-sized saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and saute a couple of minutes until soft. Add garlic, celery and carrot. Cook about 5 more minutes until vegetables are tender. Throw in thyme or rosemary spring and cook a minute.
2. Add sprouted lentils, broth and some salt, to taste. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and, covered, for 10 minutes. Season with additional salt & pepper, to taste.

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Chai Time!



All winter I have managed to resist completely succumbing to a nasty cold or respiratory flu. As my coworkers sneezed and coughed around me - some even showing up to work with a fever! - I held my breath and tried not too inhale too deeply (warning, do not try this in yoga class). I’ve definitely had my days of lethargy and the feeling that can only be described as “blah” the past few months. The glands in my neck have been swollen telling me that my body is fighting something off. Yet I have been able to withstand the really awful stuff that’s been going around.
Unfortunately, I have experienced a shift in my respiratory health over the past two days. A scratchy sore throat that screams for constant soothing with either a lozenge or gulp of hot tea now tortures me. My head is noticeably more congested and my ears ache. I am sad to say that I kind of expected this. I barely slept a wink five days ago, perhaps due to do the evening acupuncture treatment I received. Being worn down by sleep deprivation has apparently opened the door for whatever bugs have been laying in wait within my mucus membranes for the opportune time to enter my cells and begin their assault.

I suspect that the change in season is also a contributing factor. “Change in season?,” you might wonder. Even though the temperature is still hovering around the freezing point and any precipitation we receive (at least in Boston) is likely to be snow; the sun now shines higher in the sky and the ground is mushy. You’ve probably also heard or read warnings about the “second wave” of the flu season and forecasts which indicate influenza cases have yet to peak.
A simple Ayurvedic explanation can be given for this public health proclamation: Kapha season has arrived! Translation: Nature has moved us into a period of the year dominated by cold and dampness (as opposed to the cold & dry trend [aka. Vata] of early winter). The water and earth elements have started to prevail setting the stage for “reactive mucus” to develop in membranes that have dried out in the past few months. Our tissues want to be rehydrated again but can easily be overwhelmed by foreign intruders and an inappropriate diet.
A pleasant way to soothe and heal your respiratory system and rehydrate your cells is with a good cup of tea! But it can’t be just any tea. It must be a cup of chai (the word chai actually means ’tea’): black tea brewed with spice-infused water. Don’t go running out to Starbucks for a Chai Latte so fast! There is no benefit to consuming mass-produced, overly sweetened chai concentrate diluted with steamed milk. Only chai prepared in the traditional manner with high quality ingredients has health benefits.

There are numerous recipes for chai but they all contain a few key spices. Fresh gingerroot is probably the most important ingredient. Ginger (Zingiber officinale) is considered to be “the universal medicine” by both Ayurvedic and Chinese doctors. It is used for a variety of conditions including coughs, congestion, arthritis, morning sickness and circulatory disorders. Make sure to use fresh ginger when preparing chai because the dry ground form has slightly different properties and will make your brew too hot and spicy. Fresh gingerroot is a great diaphoretic which means that it causes perspiration and increased elimination of toxins through the skin. If you have sinus congestion, you can get some relief by standing over your pot of chai to inhale the steam.
Cloves are another spice that gives chai its distinctive flavor. They are particularly stimulating, heating and beneficial for the lymphatic system. (Pitta-dominant folks may want to omit the cloves.) Cinnamon also helps to harmonize circulation and is used as an expectorant in Ayurveda. Another common spice that adds pungency to authentic chai recipes is black pepper. It is great for alleviating sinus problems and drys up unwanted respiratory secretions when combined with honey. Black pepper is also a powerful digestive stimulant and helps to reduce Ama in the digestive tract.
Some of the other lesser appreciated spices that I like to add to my brew are cardamom and bay leaf. Cardamom lends an exotic sweet flavor to Indian-style puddings and jazzes up dal, as it is included in most garam masala spice blends. For those concerned about the caffeine in black tea, cardamom helps to neutralize the negative effects of the stimulanting chemical (it works in coffee, too). Finally, I usually throw a bay leaf in because it is heating and adds an interesting savory flavor.
After the spices have been boiled in water, the tea is added and allowed to steep. I recommend using regular black tea, preferably organic to avoid excess flouride. Do not use decaffinated tea since you don't know what chemicals may have been used to reduce the caffeine content (and it tastes awful). Instead, decaffeinate the tea yourself if you prefer to avoid all sources of caffeine. Simply dunk your tea bag in a cup of very hot or simmering water for a few seconds before using. Do use black tea, not green or roobois tea because you want to use the most astringent type - astringency is good for drying up mucus. Chai is traditionally served sweetened with milk. Don't be afraid to add a little natural sweetener (minimally processed cane sugar or honey*) as the sweet taste helps to pacify Vata. Dairy products are another touchy subject. Whole, unprocessed (non-homogenized and unpasteurized) is what the ancient yogis used, but it is very hard for most modern urbanites to get their hands on. If you are not lactose-intolerant or have any "issues" with dairy; buy organic milk from the supermarket or, better yet, seek out a local farm or buying club. Soymilk is not ideal but can be an acceptable substitute for those prone to the influences of Kapha dosha. People with a Vata-dominant constitution should not use soy as it has a drying effect on the body which could exacerbate already existing health problems.
So, here's my favorite recipe for homemade chai which is inspired by the teachings and recipes of Yogi Bhajan and Dr. Lad.

Rasa Rx Chai
Serves 4

5 cups spring water
1 bay leaf
1 cinnamon stick
1” piece fresh gingerroot, peeled and cut into 3 pieces
6 cardamom pods
6 black peppercorns
4 whole cloves
2 black tea bags
1 cup cow’s or soy milk
2 - 4 Tablespoons natural sweetener (evaporated cane juice, Sucanat), to taste

Gently boil spices in spring water for 15 - 20 minutes.
Remove from heat and add tea bags. Cover pot and steep for 5 minutes.
Strain the tea & spice infused water and return to pot. Add milk and sweetener, to taste. Heat to serving temperature, stirring. Serve immediately.


*If you prefer to use honey, add milk to prepared tea and allow to cool down before adding it. "Cooked" honey is toxic according to Ayurveda.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Pass the Beans


Do you shy away from bean dishes because of the embarrassing side effects? There is no need to fear members of the Leguminosae family, who happen to be both agricultural and nutritional heroes. Legume plants have played an important role in farming for thousands of years due to their ability to replenish soil with nitrogen, reducing the need for added fertilizers. Alternately planting cereal grains and legumes, be it clover, peas or lentils, is a central practice in sustainable crop rotation. Ask your local farmer for details (if you live in the Northeast like I do, you may have to wait till the nearest farmer's market or farm stand opens in June).
Anyway, back to the issue of foremost concern to consumers: flatulence! Beans contain long sugar molecules called oligosaccharides (translation: "several unit sugars") which pose a challenge to the human digestive system. Since we don't make enzymes that can break oligosaccharides into simple sugars; the large molecules travel down into the colon where bacteria work on them and release various gases (like carbon dioxide and methane). However, you can reduce the amount of gas produced in this last stage of digestion thereby minimizing embarrassing trips to the bathroom or stinky public slip-ups.
The key to a gas-free bean burrito, soup or whatever your preference, is proper preparation. The three crucial steps in the process - soaking, cooking and seasoning - help to breakdown the complex carbohydrates in legumes and make the vitamins & minerals more bioavailable.

1. Soak : Soak beans in cold water 8 to 24 hours. Make sure to use plenty of water as the beans will expand and need to remain entirely submerged the whole time. Soak until beans are uniformly softened, which indicates that some of the indigesible sugars have leached out. Sprouting and soaking legumes activates enzymes capable of breaking down their complex carbohydrates and eliminates phytic acid (see my previous post about sesame seeds).
2. Cook : Discard soaking liquid, rinse beans and place them in a pot with enough fresh cold water to cover by two inches. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to a simmer and continue to cook uncovered until beans are tender (there should be little to no resistence when you squeeze one between your fingers). You can skim the foam off the surface of the water and stir occasionally to make sure all beans cook evenly. I like to throw a piece of kombu (seaweed) in the pot because it adds trace minerals and speeds up the cooking process.
3. Season : Add salt, herbs and spices to taste and continue to cook until flavors permeate beans. Epazote, an herb native to Central America, is traditionally used to flavor black beans because of its carminative (gas-reducing) quality. In India, asafoetida (see side bar) is commonly added to dal and kitchari to minimize the Vata-aggravating effect (ie. gaseousness) of mung beans and other legumes they contain. Ayurvedic cooks utilize cumin, coriander and fennel, among other spices, extensively because of their digestive properties. Cooking with herbs and spices also fills the kitchen with alluring aromas and creates layers of fantastic flavors which prime body, mind and soul for a great meal.
My Favorite Refried Beans
Serves 6 - 8
2 Tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon freshly ground cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
pinch of asafoetida (optional)
pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)
3 cups properly cooked beans (I like pinto beans best)
1 cup vegetable broth or water, or more as needed
sea salt, to taste
ground black pepper, to taste
lime wedges

1. Heat olive oil in large saute pan over medium heat. Add garlic and spices. Cook two minutes, stirring, until mixture is fragrant.
2. Add beans with liquid of choice. Simmer until almost all liquid has evaporated and beans are extremely tender, scraping sides of pan periodically.
3. Season beans to taste with salt and pepper. Mash with a fork or potato masher, adding more liquid as needed, until desired texture is achieved. Serve with squirt of lime juice.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Listen to your tummy



Hippocrates, the Father of Medicine, insisted that “all diseases begin in the gut.” Unfortunately, most allopathic doctors today do not heed their predecessor’s wise intuition. Rather, educated MD’s poke and prod whatever organ manifests physical abnormality and dysfunction. Modern medical practice employs toxic drugs to treat the predominant symptoms (which often complicates matters with unpleasant side effects) without addressing the foremost cause (I don’t mean to offend any doctors out there reading this blog, just bear with me) of many diseases. This approach is understandable given the pressure placed on doctors to comply with institutional policies and procedures and the alluring kickbacks offered by drug companies.

In contrast to the modern healthcare paradigm, Ayurveda recognizes the importance of strong, healthy digestion for overall wellness and longevity. Agni, the digestive fire, is believed to be the main source of life and is therefore supported by a comprehensive system of dietetics that encompasses what foods to eat (and not eat) as well as when, where and how to dine. When agni is disturbed, food can not be digested properly and turns into Ama, a toxic, sticky substance.

Ama is believed to be the root cause of many diseases. Toxins originating in the colon - from unhealthy, putrid food that is ingested or healthy food which putrefies inside the GI tract due to weak agni - can travel to other parts of the body and become lodged in weak tissues and organs. Once the toxic substance embeds itself somewhere it shouldn‘t, it disrupts normal physiological function. Sounds kind of gross, right? Yet at the same time, vaguely familiar. The Ayurvedic model of etiology concurs with the concept of Leaky Gut Syndrome. Complementary and integrative health professionals recognize that damage to the inner lining of the intestines increases their permeability setting the stage for a variety of disorders including allergies, eczema, autism, ADHD, autoimmune diseases and candida infections.

According to Ayurveda, insufficient agni and Ama build-up within the GI tract may push the doshas (the psycho-physiological manifestation of the elements within the body that support life functions are prone to being "thrown out of whack" in which case they contribute to disease) out of balance. Each dosha is believed to have “a seat” in the GI tract, maha marga (the largest channel in the body), so indigestion is the first sign that one or more of them has been aggravated by improper diet or manner of eating. Vata is located in the colon and can cause flatulence or constipation if disturbed. Aggravated Pitta, which resides in the small intestine, may trigger acid reflux or diarrhea. The symptoms of perturbed Kapha in the stomach include nausea and vomitting.

Adopting healthy eating habits can keep the doshas happy and balanced. Choosing the right foods and cooking meals properly are vitally important, but you'll find that simply bringing intention and attention to the act of eating is powerful medicine. Bon Appetit!

1. Eat the proper quantity of food: the amount of food that should be taken depends on each person's constitution and strength of agni as well as time of day and season of the year. Eating more slowly will allow you to better guage how much to eat.

2. Eat fresh, wholesome foods: freshly cooked or carefully prepared raw foods are better than leftover, reheated meals. Consume organic and local vegetables whenever possible and try to avoid overly processed, convenience products.

3. Eat in a relaxed, calm environment: slow down, put work and TV aside and really focus on eating.

4. Adopt an attitude of gratitude: even if you don't believe in dieties, you can feel reverence for the people who toiled in the fields so you could satisfy your nutititional needs and enjoy a good meal. Take a moment to pay homage to agni, the fire inside of you which fuels digestion.