Saturday, April 18, 2009

Eat at your Own Risk




The CDC released a report indicating that the incidence of foodborne illness has not changed significantly over the past three years. The results of the study seem off-base given the recent Salmonella outbreak associated with tainted peanut products which has sickened nearly 700 people and killed 9. Many consumers may still be haunted by the illnesses derived from Mexican-grown jalapeno & serrano peppers (Florida tomato farmers sure are since it was their crop which was initially blamed) this past summer. And who can forget the outbreak of E.coli (caused by the potentially fatal O157:H7 serotype) from bagged fresh spinach in 2006.

Pistachio product recalls continue to trickle down in response to the current Salmonella threat traced back to Setton Pistachio of Terra Bella, Inc. While it seems as if we have nipped a full-blown outbreak in the bud (no illnesses have been definitively linked to pistachio consumption even though strains found at Setton Pistachio match some detected in samples from patients in the CDC database), the damage to the consumer psyche has been done. The word “Salmonella” has appeared on the front page of newspapers across the country, the FDA has instructed people not to eat pistachios without first checking with the manufacturer to ascertain that they are safe; and President Obama has announced the creation of a new “Food Safety Working Group.”

So what is a health-conscious person to do when “natural” and fundamentally wholesome foods are making people sick? I am sorry to say that buying organic is not the answer. Large-scale organic agricultural operations (who are generally motivated by corporate greed as much as their conventional counterparts) are susceptible to the same biological (birds dropping “salmonella bombs” on fields) and environmental (water contaminated by animal fecal matter) threats as conventional ones. And the USDA Organic stamp of approval does not guarantee ingredients immunity from mishandling on the farm, in a truck or at a manufacturing facility. The recall of thousands of organic snack foods (like Luna bars, Clif bars and Nature’s Path granola bars) made with peanuts from a certified organic processing plant owned by PCA (Peanut Corporation of America) that was closed in February for health & safety violations has shocked many consumers and left the Organic Trade Association with the difficult task of damage control.

Since corporations can not be depended on to voluntarily safeguard the food supply, someone needs to step up to the plate. In the case of almonds, which were responsible for Salmonella outbreaks in 2001 and 2004, the USDA mandated (effective September 1, 2007) the sterilization of raw nuts. California almond growers, whether they use conventional or organic practices, must subject their crop to either heat or fumigation with propylene oxide (a toxic chemical with a pretty bad track record for causing skin irritation, depressing immune function and irritating lung tissue). A small but vocal group of raw foodists and pure food activists have expressed their outrage that almonds labeled “raw” will no longer be truly raw and untreated. Sprouters now need to seek out "really raw" almonds imported from other countries where no such law exists because the mandatory processing kills the nut’s vitality.

Non-profit groups like the Cornucopia Institute, concerned with protecting the integrity of sustainable & organic agriculture and educating the public about ecological principles, also warn that the sterilization of the food supply could be more hazardous to human health. They insist that eliminating all bacteria on the surface of foods creates an environment conducive to the survival of even worse pathogens.

The more recent salmonella scares associated with peanuts and pistachios clearly demonstrate the deficiency of the USDA’s "Band-Aid" approach to food safety. Since in both scenarios, the nuts that ended up on store shelves were both infected after being roasting. The roasting process is considered the "kill" step which should have destroyed all potentially harmful bacteria. Thus, the indiscriminate sterilization of nuts is obviously not the answer.

Until food companies can be trusted to handle their ingredients responsibly and are willing to adopt transparent health & sanitation practices, the government is likely to advise consumers to treat nuts as if they were potentially hazardous. Food safety authorities have set a pretty strong precendent with raw chicken. What cook would dare undercook chicken? Will the CDC now launch a similar public health campaign surrounding nut products?

It is such a shame when perfectly healthy foods like fresh produce and nuts are the source of illness. Many people turn to nuts and seeds when they crave a nutritious and satisfying snack (due to their fat and fiber content). Now that it is so easy to find nuts and trail mix at convenience stores and in vending machines, you don't have to go out of your way to eat healthfully. Unfortunately, commercially packaged nuts - even those which have no added oil or sugar - are not as beneficial as one would hope. Because nuts contain enzyme inhibitors which make them hard to digest, they should be soaked overnight (see my previous post about sprouting). After soaking raw nuts or seeds, you can then dry them out in a warm oven (or dehydrator if you have one) to make them crispy again and kill any harmful bacteria which could possibly be present. The Aztec practice of soaking pepitas in salt water (before drying them in the sun) is probably even more effective at ridding the seeds of pathogens since bacteria can't survive in a high salt environment (they shrivel up and die).

Here is a simple recipe for soaked & dried pumpkin seeds, which can be adapted for other nuts and seeds, courtesy Sally Fallon from her book Nourishing Traditions.


Crispy Pepitas

4 cups raw, hulled pumpkin seeds
2 Tb sea salt
1 tsp cayenne pepper (optional)
filtered water

Dissolve salt in water and add pumpkin seeds and optional cayenne. Leave in a warm place for at least 7 hours or overnight. Drain in a colander and spread seeds out on a stainless steel baking pan. Place in a warm oven (no more than 150 degrees) for about 12 hours or overnight, turning occasionally, until thoroughly dry and crisp. Store in an airtight container.

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